Reflections On Life And Fashion

When we're choosing a costume to wear for teas

and special events, we have not only the best modern styles, but also a wealth of historic fashion trends to choose from.

The ladies in the old fashion plates look so pretty; the little girl inside each of us wants to wear those "dream dresses." But, before you choose a fashion statement from a certain year, consider whether the fashionable "type" of that era is close to your own body type and facial structure.

Choose a costume of the era that flatters you.

In the early 19th century (1800's - 1820's), the young, slender girl with a high, firm bosom and narrow hips had the ideal figure. The thin white cotton dresses and high waists showed this young lady off to great advantage. Hair was worn up, but little curls were considered quite attractive around the face and neck. The whole effect was one of simplicity and youth.

By the 1830's, fashion became bolder. Dresses were the colors of spring flowers, and were trimmed with ruching, ruffles, bows and flounces. The waistline dropped to just above the natural waist. This romantic look flatters those who are feminine, soft, and even a little plump, with curly hair and a sweet face.

The 1840's favored a classic beauty, with a long torso, small waist, and full, high bosom. Dresses were severe, with long, tight, pointed bodices,and long, fitted sleeves, but they were luxurious in their elegant fabrics. (Many were of heavy silks, in plaids or stripes.)

The 1850's styles flatter the lady with perfect posture, a small waist, and high, full bosom (all of which may be achieved through corsetry). The flower-trimmed bonnets were worn over smooth hair parted in the middle and neatly styled. The politics and prevailing philosophy of the decadewere oppressive to women, and so were the confining clothing styles.

The ideal figure of the 1860's resembled Queen Victoria and Mary Todd Lincoln. Fashions flattered short, plump ladies with small hands, round faces, and rounded shoulders. If the lady was tall and thin, she tried to adopt the popular look through design elements like clever placements of trims on her bodice and horizontal strips on her dress. The enormous size of crinolines created the illusion of a small waist without drastic corseting. The lighter weight of the hoops, compared to the many petticoats they replaced, freed women to pursue more activities, such as walking for their health.

During the 1870's, skirt waistlines rose slightly, allowing more of a "tummy" below, but emphasizing the bosom above. The huge amount of trimming on double skirts looked best on a woman of above-average height. To balance the skirt, with its fashionable train, many women added hairpieces in upswept hairdos. Those who were blessed with height, graceful posture, and long, thick hair were the most fashionable in these years.

The 1880's and 1890's brought some of the most corseting: a tiny waist was the most prized attribute. Some women injured their health to reduce their waistlines through tight lacing. The early 1880's also featured skirts worn tight around the thighs. The lady with a small tummy and shapely thighs was fortunate in fashion. If she was also tall, with a naturally small waist, a large bosom, and an expressive face, she was fashion's darling. The ideal face had full, curved lips, dark, arched eyebrows, and a distinctive nose.

After 1900 fashion favored the "mature" figure. A large, lower bosom and rounded hips were emphasized. The "S-curve" was the result.From the side, a woman appeared to be spilling over in front and rounded out below the waist in the back. Sweeping trains and long, curved lines of trims repeated the popular themes of art nouveau design. Even sleeves were shaped and gathered into dramatic, rounded forms. Ladies with angular figures used clever designs and strategic padding to achieve the desirable silhouette.

During the teens, women began to discard their corsets in pursuit of better health. Finally, fashion was taking a back seat to comfort! Fashion compensated for the larger waistline and softer bosom by adding emphasis at the hips. Many styles of the era feature ruffles, trims, or even flared overskirts that accent the largest part of a woman's hips. The beauty of these fashions was provided by the soft colors and fabrics, and by design with rosebud lips, large eyes, and wavy, soft hair. If you have a sweet, feminine face and large hips, you might look perfect in the styles of this decade.

During the 1920's the tall, youthful figure reigned. The waist was invisible beneath the straight up-and-down line of clothes. If the woman had a bust line of any size, she wore an early brassiere to control it and minimize it. Narrow hips and long legs enhanced the line of the dresses, too.

The 1930's favored a similar figure: a tall, graceful lady with a small, firm bust line and good muscle tone. Everyone else wore girdles and brassieres! Dresses were clingy, and slips were thin.

Fashions of the 1940's still look classic to us today. The simple, tailored styles looked good on almost everyone, but especially on the average figure with balanced proportions between bust, waist and hips. The shorter skirts and strappy shoe styles also flattered those with curvy legs and attractive busts, small waists, narrow hips and long legs. (The Barbie Doll was designed during this era, too!) Makeup enhanced facial features, providing lush, well-defined lips and dark, angular brows.

The "line" of fashion changes with the times, to reflect popular beliefs, cultural influences, and even the style of contemporary celebrities.

If you have a well-proportioned, youthful figure, and oval face, and long thick, wavy hair, you will probably look lovely in almost any of the fashions of the last two hundred years. The rest of us, however, should consider the ideal figure and facial types of each fashion era, before choosing our own for our tea and party wardrobe.

Written by: Kaye Demlow, the creative force behind Lavender's Green Historic Clothing. Visit her at www.lavendersgreen.com